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Video: Folklorico at La Casona del Molino, Salta

Pena at the Casona del Molino, salta

Salta is famous for its peñas, venues where musicians come together to play traditional folk music. Most of these have been turned into touristy nightmares with an organised sit-down dinner and staged show. We avoided these but were luckily told about one that retains its authenticity – La Casona del Molino.

Hanging out after the pena at Casona del Molino

The casona is a huge multi-room restaurant, where musicians gather for impromptu jam sessions. There aren’t stages, costumes or schedules – people at their tables just pick up their instruments or start to sing.

On our first night, we sat in a room full of students. After about 11pm, one cracked out his guitar and soon the whole group was singing, led by two incredible male vocalists. When we got up to explore the rest of the casona, we found the whole place alive with music – a different session in each room.

Storyteller at the Casona del Molino, salta

I enjoyed my first experience of folklorico in Buenos Aires, but this took it to another level. The impassioned music is moving to witness, especially when the crowd joins in. It is also common for people to stand up and tell a story over the music. We struggled to follow the words but were entertained nonetheless by the charisma of the storytellers.

Los de Salta poster at casona del molino

Here’s a little video of some of the people we saw playing in the casona. It was taken on our second night there, when we sat in a room with three men who were regulars (their photos were on the wall and one even sold a cd). Their faces told stories themselves.

[callout bg="#dfdbd8" color="#261e19"]

Useful info

  • La Casona del Molino is at Luis Burela 1. It’s a little way out of town so we got a taxi there and back (we only ever had to wait about 5 minutes for one to pass by despite its remote location).
  • Both times we went, around 10pm, we got one of the last available tables. We would definitely recommend going earlier to be on the safe side.
  • The menu is traditional Argentinian but has a few vegetarian options – empanadas, humitas, cheesy chips and salads.[/callout]

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Comments

    • Victoria says

      Thank you Bobbi. I’m pleased you like the site. The Casona really did provide a wonderful taste of Argentinian culture.

    • Victoria says

      Us too! I must say we quite enjoyed them despite an overload of cheese in Argentina. I remember reading about the Casona on your blog – thanks for the tip.

  1. says

    This sounds wonderful and a must if I ever make to that neck of the woods! I love live music especially when it traditional and all this acommpanied by an empanadas and no doubt a beer or two! Winderful.

  2. Carolyn says

    Brings back many memories to see these photos! About 6 years ago, my traveling parter and I were so enchanted by the Casona and the folk traditions that we stayed for a couple months. A most authentic place, folklore is not just preserved but indeed alive and well in Salta.
    Rodrigo, playing the guitar in your video, is a friend of ours and a most dedicated and talented folklorist, not to mention warm and wonderful person. Que viva la samba!

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